Freshly gutted swim bladder of a fish, 2020. Photo by Elliot James Ong. This is the swim bladder of a fish, otherwise known as fish maw. Thrown away as waste in most cultures, it is prized as a delicacy in Chinese cuisine. Newspaper cutting of fish maw from the 2000s, 2020. Photo by Elliot James Ong. Looking through newspaper articles, fish maw appeared in articles of the Straits Times as early as 1950 as a luxury food item. It is hard to find fish maw being used in home recipes of that era, except in recipes for fish maw soup which is consumed for its perceived health benefits. Even in recent years, fish maw is still praised for its medicinal value like in this newspaper article. A very expensive fish maw reserved for a customer, 2020. Photo by Elliot James Ong. Due to its medicinal properties and unique texture, fish maw can be very expensive. This shopkeeper proudly shows off one fish maw which costs S$800 per kilo and was reserved by a customer for a special occasion. However, not all maws are this expensive and only the premium grades are sold for such staggering amounts. Dried (left) and fried (right) fish maws for sale, 2020. Photo by Elliot James Ong. The price of fish maw can vary widely depending on whether it is dried or deep-fried, the species it comes from and how big it is. Generally, the bigger the maw, the higher the price; However, there are exceptions to the rule. Colourful selection of fish at Jurong Fishery Port, 2020. Photo by Elliot James Ong Premium grade fish maws that fetch high prices usually come from large fishes such as Nile Perch and Totoaba that are harvested in faraway places. That being said, nowadays there are many cheaper varieties of maw on the market. Some fish maws being sold even come from species that can easily be found in local markets, including varieties of red snapper, called Ang Goi (“Crimson Snapper” in Hokkien) and Ang Sai (“Emperor Red Snapper” in Hokkien). Typical dried goods stall at Albert Centre Wet Market, 2020. Photo by Elliot James Ong. Albert Centre Wet Market is one of the biggest marketplaces for dried goods in Singapore. There is a type of maw for everyone, with prices ranging from S$3 to S$35 per 100g. According to shopkeepers, the clientele consists mainly of home cooks. Mdm Lin Siew Shian showing off her cookbooks, 2020. Photo by Elliot James Ong. Mdm Lin Siew Shian, 91 and a home cook of over 40 years, can attest to the use of fish maw in home-cooking. “It is cooked all year round for family members…for the health benefits, but of course people eat it more during festive periods” she says. Guan’s mee pok with slivers of fish maw, 2017. Image from: Misstamchiak Recently, fish maw has become more widely available. The greatest example of that is this bowl of noodles. Not too long ago, some mee pok stalls have decided to grace their humble hawker dish with slivers of fish maw - finally and definitively upsetting its upper-class status.